Gastronomixs

Beef tongue umami

 Beef tongue umami Enlarge

The guest chef for October is Ana Roš, chef and owner of Hiša Franko in Kobarid (Slovenia), where the menu is determined by the local environment of the Soča Valley. The area has a rich diversity of animal species, fruit, and wild plants – ingredients that Ana likes to use in her cooking. Her cooking style is an innovative remake of traditional recipes from the Soča Valley, prepared with local ingredients. The restaurant is closely linked to the community of shepherds, cheese-makers, hunters, and fishermen.

Ana's philosophy is to be led by nature: take what the season has to offer, combine the unexpected, and don't be afraid to take risks.

Ana only started cooking around the age of 30, and has achieved a lot in remarkably short space of time. She took over the restaurant, Hiša Franko, together with her partner from his father. She started working in the kitchen without any prior experience, and she taught herself how to cook. And with great success; in 2017 she was named the world's best female chef by the World's 50 Best Restaurants Academy. In 2016, Ana was featured in the Netflix documentary Chef's Table.

Creation by Ana Roš, Hiša Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia.

Photography by Suzan Gabrijan.

Ingredients

50

g

scallop coral (from around 3 kg of scallops)

250

ml

grapeseed oil

15

ml

fresh lime juice

3-4

g

salt

3

litres

water

500

 

local seaweed, dried

300

g

scallop membranes

300

g

sardines

300

g

mackerel

200

g

dried wild mushrooms (black trumpets and chanterelles)

80

g

soya sauce

500

ml

fish sauce

15

litres

water

 

 

salt

1

kg

celeriac

1

litre

cream

 

 

salt

As needed:

 

hay

2

kg

beef tongue

2

kg

rock salt

2

 

carrots, diced

2

 

onions, diced

1

stalk

celery, diced

50

g

sea fennel

30

g

seaweed

20

g

sugar

50

g

beef tongue cooking liquid

15                  

g

white wine vinegar

30

g

fish sauce

15

g

olive oil

600

ml

water

400

ml

cider vinegar

400

g

sugar

1

kg

celeriac

   

scallops (white flesh part)

As needed:

 

beef tongue cooking liquid

Preparation method: coral mayonnaise
  • Open the scallops and separate them into three parts. Keep the coral for the mayonnaise, the membrane for the Mediterranean dashi, and the scallop itself (the white flesh) for the finishing and presentation.
  • Blend the scallop coral in a thermoblender or using a hand-held blender and add the lime juice and around 3 to 4 grams of salt.
  • Add the grapeseed oil drop by drop to emulsify the mixture.
  • Add more lime juice if necessary.
Preparation method: Mediterranean dashi
  • Debone the sardine and the mackerel, and salt the fish and scallop membranes with 20% of their weight.
  • Dry the salted fish over a period of five days.
  • Then rinse them in cold water, smoke them, and dry them for 16 hours at 65°C. 
  • Bring the water and seaweed to the boil together and simmer for two hours.
  • Add the dried fish and simmer for another three hours. (It’s very important to not boil the dashi too vigorously, as you need to make an infusion).
  • Strain the dashi, add the mushrooms, and leave to cool.
  • Bring back up to the boil and leave to simmer.
  • Once the dashi is concentrated enough, take it off the heat and season with the soya sauce and fish sauce.
Preparation method: smoked celeriac purée
  • Peel the celeriac and chop it into small pieces.
  • Cook the celeriac in the cream on a low heat until soft (It’s important not to let the cream boil in order to avoid a yellow colour in the purée).
  • Strain and blend the celeriac in a thermoblender for six minutes at 70°C.
  • Season with salt.
  • Place the purée in a gastronorm tray, and smoke it with hay with the aid of a small smoker. Cover with cling film while smoking and repeat this process twice.
Preparation method: beef tongue
  • Cover the tongue with rock salt and cure it overnight. Then rinse with cold water.
  • Put the tongue in a pot together with all the other ingredients and cover with water.
  • Cook the tongue for two to three hours, depending on the size of the tongue.
  • Remove the beef tongue from the stock and remove the skin while still hot. Leave to cool.
  • Strain the remaining stock and keep for heating up the beef tongue later.
  • Once the skin has been removed from the tongue and it is cold, slice it in slices of 1.5mm.
Preparation method: seaweed and sea fennel salad
  • Blanch the seaweed and sea fennel in boiling water for a couple of seconds.
  • Immediately cool in iced water.
  • Bring the fish sauce, sugar, wine vinegar, and beef tongue cooking liquid to the boil and reduce by a third.
  • Allow it to cool.
  • Whisk in the olive oil and dress the salad.
Preparation method: pickled celeriac
  • Mix the water, vinegar, and sugar.
  • Bring to the boil to dissolve the sugar.
  • Cool the pickling liquid down.
  • Peel the celeriac, cut in half vertically, and use a Japanese mandolin or food slicer to cut into slices 1 mm thick.
  • Pickle the celeriac in the liquid for two days.
  • Drain and store in the refrigerator.
Finishing and presentation
  • Reheat the sliced beef tongue in the cooking liquid.
  • Reheat the celeriac purée.
  • Place the celeriac purée, raw scallops, and beef tongue on the bottom of the serving bowls.
  • Add the mayonnaise and salad and cover with the pickled celeriac.
  • Serve the dashi at the table.

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