Gastronomixs

Bison with morels and Jerusalem artichoke

Thomas Bühner has been an icon of German gastronomy for several years, and he is a perfect symbol of the rapid changes that German gastronomy has undergone recently. Bühner is chef de cuisine at Restaurant la vie*** in Osnabrück, Germany. For more than twenty years, he has been one of Germany's leading chefs. His cooking style is characterised by three core attributes: making optimum use of the pure taste of an ingredient, preparing the food at low temperatures (or, as Bühner puts it, 'Take your foot off the throttle!'), and creating a menu in which you always make a journey of discovery through various textures and aromas. He sees a menu not as a collection of separate dishes, but rather like the music in a symphony: sometimes a particular instrument has the melody, but the entire orchestra works together to ensure success. As much as possible, he uses fruit, vegetables, and herbs from the gardens of nearby Schloss Ippenburg.

Creation by Thomas Bühner, Restaurant La Vie***, Osnabrück, Germany.

Serves 10

Bison with morels and Jerusalem artichoke

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Ingredients

8

 

Jerusalem artichoke tubers

150

ml

stock

10

g

muscovado sugar

50

g

butter

200

ml

sunflower oil

30

g

morels

½

 

onion, small

20

ml

sherry

400

ml

stock

400

ml

water

150

g

morel trimmings

150

ml

morel bouillon

70

ml

pigeon jus

2

g

agar agar

120

g

flour

20

g

dried morels

40

g

morel oil

10

g

icing sugar

400

g

spinach

 

 

freeze-dried truffle

 

 

salt

1

kg

bison fillet

 

 

butter

 

 

salt

50

 

morels, small

 

 

butter

 

 

sherry

 

 

poultry stock

 

 

salt

4

 

Jerusalem artichoke tubers, small

 

 

morel oil

 

 

salt and pepper

5

large

Jerusalem artichoke tubers

 

 

sunflower oil

 

 

salt

Preparation method: morel jus and jelly
  • First make the morel jus. Slice the onion in thin rings and sweat it together with the morel trimmings in a little oil.
  • Deglaze with the sherry and reduce.
  • Add the water and bouillon and boil it in a pressure cooker for 1.5 hours.
  • Pass the bouillon mixture through a sieve and season to taste.
  • Combine with the warm morel bouillon and the pigeon jus.
  • Measure 250 grams of morel jus, add the agar agar, and bring to the boil.
  • Allow it to boil for one minute and pass through the sieve again.
  • Pour into a confectionery funnel and let it run onto a tray so as to create a thin layer.
  • Allow the mixture to gel and slice it into narrow strips, like a kind of tagliatelle.
Preparation method: morel oil
  • Wash and dry the morels.
  • Fry them briefly in a little oil and then evacuate in a vacuum bag together with the sunflower oil.
  • Allow to infuse at 85°C for 6 hours in a hot water bath.
  • Pass the morels through a sieve and store the oil in a squeeze bottle.
Preparation method: morel soil
  • Grind the morels until they have a sandy texture and roast this powder for 45 minutes in a 150°C oven.
  • Very briefly blanch the spinach and plunge them immediately into iced water.
  • Squeeze the water out of the spinach leaves and blend them in a blender until very fine.
  • Drain them in a sieve and save the liquid.
  • Measure 20 grams of this bright-green spinach juice and add the flower, morel oil, morel powder, and icing sugar.
  • Use a microplane grater to grate some freeze-dried truffle over the mixture, season with salt, and add some red food colouring. 
Preparation method: Jerusalem artichoke carpaccio
  • Just before serving, use a cutter with a 3cm diameter to cut out Jerusalem artichoke rings and place them in iced water.
  • Thinly shave them à la minute and marinate them with the morel oil and salt and pepper.
Preparation method: glazed and semi-dried Jerusalem artichoke
  • Turn the Jerusalem artichokes until they measure approximately 2.5x1.5cm.
  • Place them in a vacuum bag with the rest of the ingredients, pull vacuum, and cook them in the steamer at 95°C for 1 hour.
  • Drain the pieces in a sieve and save the liquid to use for glazing.
  • Glaze half of the pieces in the liquid à la minute and mount with a little cold butter.
  • Dry the other half in a heating or drying cabinet for 3 hours.
Preparation method: fried Jerusalem artichoke peel
  • Wash the tubers thoroughly, wrap them in aluminium foil, and bake them in a 150°C oven until soft.
  • Cut the tubers in half and scrape them out.
  • Dry the peels overnight in a heating or drying cabinet.
  • Fry the peels à la minute in 180°C oil.
Preparation method: morels
  • Wash the morels thoroughly with a brush.
  • Fry them à la minute in butter.
  • Deglaze with the sherry and poultry stock.
  • Season to taste with salt.
Preparation method: bison
  • Divide the bison fillet into portions and allow it to come up to room temperature.
  • Smother both sides in melted butter.
  • Cook the fillets slowly in a 100°C oven and turn them every 5 minutes.
  • Once the desired core temperature has been achieved, sear the meat on all sides.
  • Season with salt and serve.
Finishing & presentation
  • Arrange the garnishes in a half circle.
  • Place the meat on the plates and serve the morel jus separately.

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