Gastronomixs

Chocolate crémeux with banana, yuzu and sesame

This month's guest chef is Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison Park*** and NoMad* in New York. Born in Switzerland, this top-class chef has a clear vision and style of cooking that he has developed over many years of experience. His dishes, which are clean, colourful, and full of contrast, are assembled using clearly defined components. He uses seasonal ingredients, particularly vegetables, that remain recognisable and which are prepared and combined to perfection. After many years in Switzerland, he moved to the USA in 2003 where he worked in a variety of top hotels and restaurants. In 2008 he became executive chef at Danny Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park, where he later earned three Michelin stars. In 2011 Daniel bought Eleven Madison Park together with general manager Will Guidara. Here, Daniel combines classic French dishes with modern influences, and often finds inspiration beyond gastronomy, such as in music. Miles Davis is a great source of inspiration throughout the restaurant. Furthermore, Daniel believes it is essential for knowledge to be passed on, not only among chefs but also to the younger generation.

From Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook by Daniel Humm & Will Guidara, Eleven Madison Park restaurant***, New York.

Chocolate crémeux with banana, yuzu and sesame

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Ingredients

120

g

Valrhona Caraïbe chocolate (66 percent), chopped

220

g

cocoa butter

1

tbsp

sesame oil

300

ml

yuzu juice

240

g plus 2 tbsp

sugar

1

tbsp plus 1 tsp

pectin

260

g

glucose

200

g

Valrhona Caraïbe chocolate (66 percent), chopped

1

tsp

butter

3

tbsp

tahini paste

1/2

tsp

salt

150

g

feuilletine

180

ml

milk

180

ml

cream

50

g

sugar

4

 

egg yolks

1

sheet

gelatin

170

g

Valrhona Caraïbe chocolate (66 percent), chopped

 

 

sesame chocolate spray

160

g

black sesame seeds

1/8

tsp

salt

80

ml

sesame oil

3

tbsp

large tapioca pearls

4

 

ripe bananas

1

l

rapeseed oil

1

tbsp

sugar

120

g

Valrhona Caraïbe chocolate (66 percent), chopped

1

tbsp

sesame oil

2

 

N2O cartridges

240

g

sugar

1

tbsp

agar-agar (7 grams)

1/2

 

vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

60

ml

cream

60

ml

yuzu juice

1

tsp

salt

8

 

ripe bananas

140

g

sugar

1/2

tsp

salt

3/4

tsp

yuzu juice

2

 

large ripe bananas

50

g

sugar

Preparation method: yuzu pâte de fruit
  • Place the yuzu juice in a small saucepan and warm over low heat.
  • In a small bowl, thoroughly combine 50g of the sugar and the pectin.
  • Whisk into the warm yuzu juice and bring the mixture up to the boil, cooking until it reaches 103°C.
  • Combine the remaining 190g plus 2 tablespoons of sugar and the glucose in another bowl.
  • Slowly whisk the glucose mixture into the yuzu mixture and bring up to a second boil.
  • Continue boiling until the temperature reaches 105°C.
  • Pour the mixture into a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and cool to room temperature.
  • Break the pâte de fruit into small pieces (about 6mm). They do not have to be uniform.
  • Cool and keep at room temperature. 
Preparation method: sesame chocolate spray
  • Combine the chocolate, cocoa butter, and sesame oil over a double boiler and melt slowly.
  • Strain and transfer to a spray gun.
Preparation method: chocolate tahini feuilletine
  • Combine the chocolate and butter in a medium saucepan and melt over low heat.
  • Stir in the tahini paste and salt until smooth.
  • Fold in the feuilletine.
  • Roll the mixture between two sheets of parchment paper until about 3mm thick.
  • Chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
  • With a ring cutter measuring 5mm in diameter, cut rounds from the chocolate tahini feuilletine.
  • Store in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Preparation method: bittersweet chocolate custard
  • Combine the milk and cream in a medium, straight-sided pan and bring to a low simmer over low heat.
  • In a mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar and egg yolks.
  • Pour the hot milk slowly into the egg mixture.
  • Return back to the pan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches 81°C.
  • Bloom the gelatin by placing it in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes, until pliable.
  • Squeeze out any excess moisture from the gelatin and melt into the egg mixture. Strain.
  • Place the chocolate in a large heatproof container.
  • Pour the hot mixture over the chocolate and rest for two minutes to melt the chocolate.
  • With a hand blender, emulsify the mixture.
  • Transfer to a piping bag and pipe into mini muffin flex moulds measuring 5cm in diameter.
  • Freeze for at least two hours.
  • Turn out the custards and spray with the sesame chocolate spray.
  • Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
Preparation method: black sesame paste
  • In a small sauté pan, lightly toast the sesame seeds over low heat.
  • While the sesame seeds are still warm, place in a blender with the salt.
  • Blend and slowly add the sesame oil.
  • Purée until smooth and pass the mixture through a fine-mesh tamis. 
Preparation method: banana tapioca tuile
  • Preheat the oven to 1350°C.
  • In a medium saucepan, bring 1l water to a rolling boil.
  • Add the tapioca pearls and simmer until tender, 35 to 40 minutes.
  • Rinse the tapioca under cold running water and drain.
  • In a blender, purée the cooked tapioca with the bananas until completely smooth.
  • Pass through a fine-mesh tamis.
  • With an offset spatula, spread the tuile batter onto pieces of acetate measuring 7.5cm by 10cm.
  • Dry the tuile in the oven for about three hours or until completely dry.
  • Peel the tuiles off the acetate right after removing from the oven.
  • Heat the oil to 190°C.
  • Fry the tuiles for 5 to 10 seconds and drain on paper towels.
  • Sprinkle each with the sugar. 
Preparation method: sesame-aerated chocolate
  • Line a rimmed baking sheet with acetate.
  • Combine the chocolate and sesame oil in a whipped-cream canister.
  • Place the canister into a water bath maintained at 28°C by an immersion circulator for 1 1/2 hours.
  • Charge the melted chocolate with the N2O cartridges.
  • Expel the chocolate to cover the prepared baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight.
  • Break the frozen chocolate into small pieces and reserve in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
Preparation method: caramel yuzu gel
  • In a medium straight-sided pan over medium heat, warm the sugar to a dark caramel.
  • Add 180ml water to the caramel.
  • Bring to the boil, remove from the heat, and keep warm.
  • In a small saucepan, combine the agar-agar and 120ml water.
  • Place over medium heat and whisk for five minutes while it comes to a simmer.
  • Slowly whisk in the caramel mixture and vanilla bean seeds, transfer to a bowl, and chill over ice.
  • Once set, cut the gel into small pieces and blend in a blender with the cream, yuzu juice, and salt.
  • Pass through a fine-mesh tamis.
Preparation method: roasted banana sorbet
  • Preheat the oven to 175°C.
  • Place the unpeeled bananas on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and roast the bananas until they are brown and the juices run out, about 30 minutes.
  • Peel the roasted bananas and place in the blender with the sugar, salt, and 355ml water. Purée until smooth and strain. Season with the yuzu juice.
  • Chill over ice and freeze in an ice-cream maker.
Preparation method: caramelised banana balls
  • With a medium Parisian spoon or melon baller, scoop 16 balls from the bananas.
  • Place the banana balls on a baking sheet or in a heatproof dish and sprinkle them with the sugar.
  • Using a blowtorch, caramelise the sugar on the banana balls.
Finishing and presentation
  • Spread 1/2 teaspoon of the black sesame paste down the centre of a plate.
  • Place one round chocolate tahini feuilletine on one end of the paste and top with a bittersweet chocolate custard mould.
  • Next to the custard and on top of the black sesame paste, scoop 1 tablespoon of the sesame-aerated chocolate.
  • Squeeze three coin-sized dots of caramel yuzu gel on the plate and arrange six to seven pieces of the yuzu pâte de fruit next to the dots.
  • Place two caramelised banana balls on the plate.
  • Place one quenelle of the roasted banana sorbet on the sesame-aerated chocolate and top with one banana tapioca tuile.
  • Repeat with the remaining ingredients, to serve 8.

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