Gastronomixs

Dirty cuttlefish

Dirty cuttlefish Enlarge

The guest chef for October is Ana Roš, chef and owner of Hiša Franko in Kobarid (Slovenia), where the menu is determined by the local environment of the Soča Valley. The area has a rich diversity of animal species, fruit, and wild plants – ingredients that Ana likes to use in her cooking. Her cooking style is an innovative remake of traditional recipes from the Soča Valley, prepared with local ingredients. The restaurant is closely linked to the community of shepherds, cheese-makers, hunters, and fishermen.

Ana's philosophy is to be led by nature: take what the season has to offer, combine the unexpected, and don't be afraid to take risks.

Ana only started cooking around the age of 30, and has achieved a lot in remarkably short space of time. She took over the restaurant, Hiša Franko, together with her partner from his father. She started working in the kitchen without any prior experience, and she taught herself how to cook. And with great success; in 2017 she was named the world's best female chef by the World's 50 Best Restaurants Academy. In 2016, Ana was featured in the Netflix documentary Chef's Table.

Creation by Ana Roš, Hiša Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia.

Photography by Suzan Gabrijan.

Ingredients

2

kg

cuttlefish, ‘dirty’ (not cleaned)

500

g

3% brine water

200

g

olive oil

50

g

rosemary

As needed:

 

cuttlefish offal

300

g

shallots

200

g

carrots

3

 

bay leaves

60

g

garlic, peeled

400

g

white wine

5

litres

water

As needed:

 

olive oil

800

g

spring onions

300

g

olive oil

200

g

vegetable stock

6

g

Gelespessa thickening agent

10

g

salt

600

g

potato

 

 

salt

100

g

butter

3

leaves

gelatin, soaked

500

g

date tomatoes

50

g

sugar

60

g

olive oil

15

g

salt

5

g

sundried oregano

250

g

red mullet stock, greatly reduced

50

g

salicornia

30

g

purslane

Preparation method: cuttlefish cooked sous vide
  • Clean the cuttlefish and keep all the innards and the heads (offal) for the cuttlefish sauce.
  • Place the cuttlefish in a container that fits in the vacuum machine.
  • Add the brine and pull vacuum.
  • Repeat this process three times.
  • Strain the cuttlefish, then vacuum seal them with olive oil and rosemary.
  • Cook sous-vide (in a steamer or hot water bath) for 25 minutes at 52°C.
  • Remove the cuttlefish from the vacuum sealed bags and cut the surface with a very sharp knife.
Preparation method: cuttlefish sauce
  • Chop the shallots, carrots, and garlic.
  • Sweat the shallots and carrots in a little olive oil in a large pan.
  • Add the garlic, cuttlefish offal, and its black ink.
  • Deglaze the pan with white wine and reduce.
  • Add the water and bay leaves and simmer for two hours.
  • Strain the sauce and reduce by half.
Preparation method: spring onion sauce
  • Clean the spring onions.
  • Roast the onions, preferably over charcoal, until tender.
  • Blend the onions in a thermoblender, then emulsify with olive oil and vegetable stock.
  • Stabilise with Gelespessa and add salt to taste.
Preparation method: potato foam
  • Peel the potatoes, keeping the peels. Cook the potatoes in plenty of water with a little salt.
  • Strain the potatoes and keep the cooking liquid.
  • Roast the potato peels, vacuum seal them with the cooking liquid, and cook sous-vide (in a steamer or hot water bath) for four hours at 75°C.
  • Strain the potato peels and keep the cooking liquid.
  • Blend 300 grams of the cooked potatoes with 600 grams of the cooking liquid in a thermoblender.
  • Bring up to 70°C, and add the soaked gelatin and butter.
  • Transfer to a siphon, and aerate with two cartridges.
Preparation method: tomato sauce
  • Combine the tomatoes with the olive oil, salt, sugar, and oregano in a baking tray.
  • Roast in the oven for 20 minutes at 200°C, then for 45 minutes at 135°C.
  • Blend the tomatoes in a thermoblender while still warm without removing the skins.
  • Warm the red mullet stock.
  • Add the warmed stock.
Finishing and presentation
  • Blanch the salicornia in boiling water for a couple of seconds.
  • Immediately cool in iced water.
  • Roast the cuttlefish in a hot pan, pressing it down with another pan.
  • Heat all sauces and arrange on the plate.
  • Place the cuttlefish on the plate and finish with potato foam, salicornia and purslane.

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