Gastronomixs

Duxelles with rye bread ice cream

This month's guest chef is François Geurds. While François is a chef, he is also an entrepreneur and owner of FG Restaurant**, FG Food Labs*, and FG Chocolate Room (FG Bonbons) in Rotterdam. This Dutch chef also has roots in Aruba, where his mother, a talented home cook, grew up. She continues to be his biggest inspiration. 

As a student, François travelled across the world and worked in the kitchens of restaurants in Italy, the USA, and the UK, such as Per Se*** (USA), The French Laundry*** (USA), and as a sous chef at The Fat Duck*** (UK). In the Netherlands he worked at Parkheuvel, which in 2002 became the first Dutch restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars. In 2009, François opened FG Restaurant where he was awarded his first Michelin star within nine months, to be followed by the second star in 2013. The following year he also received a Michelin star for the newly opened FG Food Labs.

Quality is always paramount for François. His distinctive cooking style is difficult to define, but he is world-famous for his deep, complex flavours. François Geurds is the only Dutch chef to have his own taste laboratory.

François has this to say about the dish: ‘The rye bread ice cream adds a special touch to this dish. By replacing the sugar with a small amount of glucose, the ice cream is not too sweet and perfectly complements the mushrooms. The Tahoon cress, which is the green topping on the ice cream, completes the dish. The Tahoon cress, which originates from the Himalayas, is the additional flavour accent and is somewhat similar to beechnuts.’

Creation by François Geurds, FG Restaurant**, FG Food Labs*, Rotterdam, The Netherlands.
Photography by Scala Photography.

Duxelles with rye bread ice cream

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Ingredients

250

g

chestnut mushrooms

15

g

fresh parsley

1

 

bay leaf

 

 

salt and pepper

100

g

nameko mushrooms

150

g

sugar

200

ml

vinegar

2

slices

rye bread

175

g

glucose

300

ml

milk

300

ml

 whipping cream

6

 

egg yolks

 

 

salt and pepper

10

g

Tahoon cress

Preparation method: chestnut mushroom duxelles
  • Cut the chestnut mushrooms into slices and fry in olive oil at 90°C with the salt and pepper, bay leaf, and fresh parsley.
  • When done, strain the mushrooms and remove the bay leaf.
  • Finely chop into a duxelles in the food processor. 
Preparation method: pickled nameko mushrooms
  • Cook the nameko mushrooms for two minutes in a mixture of 150g sugar and 200ml vinegar.
  • Cool the pan down quickly.
  • Allow the mushrooms to soak in the liquid for six hours.
Preparation method: rye bread ice cream
  • To make the rye bread ice cream, first bring the milk, whipping cream, and glucose to the boil in a small pan.
  • Beat the egg yolks in a bowl and beat in the warm milk mixture a little at a time.
  • Pour the mixture back into the pan and place on the stove.
  • Use a whisk to beat the mixture, but make sure that it doesn't burn.
  • Heat the pan to absolutely no more than 80°C.
  • Crumb the slices of rye bread and add these to the mixture.
  • Cool the mixture over ice water as quickly as possible.
  • Let this basis for the ice cream rest for at least twelve hours, so that the rye bread softens.
  • Pass the mixture through a sieve and season with salt and pepper.
  • Churn the sieved mixture into ice cream in an ice cream maker.
Finishing & presentation
  • Use two spoons dipped in lukewarm water to create a quenelle of the duxelles and one of the rye bread ice cream.
  • Garnish the dish with the pickled nameko mushrooms and the Tahoon cress.

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