Meringue, linseed foam, and redcurrant sorbet
This month's guest chef is the Dutch chef Lode van Zuylen. Together with Stijn Remi, he runs Lode & Stijn restaurant, a well-known name in the Berlin food scene. After gaining experience in restaurants in Amsterdam, Maastricht, Prague, Stockholm, Hamburg, and San Francisco, the two chefs opened their own restaurant in Berlin. Here, they focus on seasonal dishes, sustainability, and craftsmanship. The dishes are worldly, modern, simple, and authentic.
Lode and Stijn met during their studies, after which they went on to gain experience in different restaurants. Lode worked at Mathias Dahlgren in Stockholm and in the kitchen of Bar Tartine in San Francisco, while Stijn gained experience working at the Four Seasons in Prague and Hamburg. Despite each going their own way, they had always fantasised about opening a restaurant together. Eventually they both ended up in Berlin, where they first started several spectacular pop-ups, and after which they opened their own restaurant. When dining at Lode & Stijn, you will also get to taste Lode's unique sourdough bread, which is famed for being one of the best breads in Berlin.
For this dessert you can use any type of fruit that has a tart flavour, with the exception of citrus fruits. You could use pears, rhubarb, cherries, apples, raspberries, etc. It is important that you use seasonal fresh fruit. The amount of sugar syrup and lemon juice will have to be adjusted accordingly and depend on the amount of natural sugars and acidity in the fruit. Ensure that the mixture is a little sweeter than it is sour, as you serve it at -14°C, a temperature at which you taste less.
Picture by Kelly Elizabeth Tivnan.
Creation by Lode van Zuylen, Lode & Stijn restaurant, Berlin, Germany.
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Preparation method: redcurrant sorbet
- Blend the redcurrants in a thermo blender until smooth and add chilled sugar syrup and lemon juice until the desired taste is achieved.
- Freeze in a Pacojet cup.
Preparation method: strained yoghurt
- Place the yoghurt in a cloth and drain overnight.
Preparation method: meringue
- Beat the egg whites until fluffy white peaks start to form and slowly add 100g of sugar while continuing to beat.
- In the meantime, make a sugar syrup with 100g of sugar and a few drops of water and cook up to 121°C.
- Slowly add the sugar syrup while continuing to beat.
- Pipe circles of approx. 5cm in diameter.
- Flatten the meringue with the back of a spoon to create a neat ‘bowl'.
- Dry in oven or drying cabinet overnight until they have completely dried.
Preparation method: linseed foam
- Toast the linseeds in a dry pan and pour in the chilled milk.
- Set aside and allow to soak in the refrigerator overnight.
- Pour the linseeds through a sieve and cook in a bain-marie with the egg yolks until 80°C.
- Add the gelatin that has been soaked in cold water.
- Set to cool.
- While this is cooling, beat the cream until stiff.
- Carefully blend the linseed mixture and the cream.
- Transfer the mixture to a siphon and add two chargers.
Finishing & presentation
- Top the meringue with a full spoon of strained yoghurt, The yoghurt is possibly the most important element of the dish due to its pleasant tartness, so don't skimp on how much you use.
- Add a good scoop of ice cream and finish with the foam.
- Complete the dish with the roasted linseeds that have been crushed with a mortar and pestle.