Gastronomixs

Morel mushrooms with wild garlic and wild herbs

Joris Bijdendijk (1984) is the executive chef at RIJKS® restaurant. At the age of sixteen, Joris decided that he wanted to become a chef. After several internships his career launched when he was just nineteen and he started working in Ron Blaauw's restaurant, which bears the same name. In the years that Joris worked there, the restaurant was awarded its first and second Michelin star.

After working at the restaurant for six years, Joris decided to go to France where he wanted to work with a living legend at a big restaurant that had at least two Michelin stars. After a lengthy search in Paris and Lyon he found Jardin des Senses** owned by brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. Unfortunately the restaurant did not have a vacancy for him at that time, but after six months he was offered a job there and became the restaurant's sous chef. After two years he returned to the Netherlands to start working as the executive chef at Bridges where he was awarded a Michelin star in his first year.. In 2014 he left Bridges to start as executive chef at Vermaat Groep and at RIJKS® restaurant where he was awarded a Michelin star in 2016.

At RIJKS® the emphasis is on simplicity and the kitchen is committed to using sustainable and local products. Joris sees it as his mission to develop a new cuisine for the Netherlands, just as René Redzepi had done in Scandinavia. This vision is put to paper in his book Bijdendijk, een keuken voor de lage landen (Bijdendijk's Dutch cuisine) which will be published in November.

Fresh morels are available for just a short period of time; the season for this spring mushroom runs only from April to May. Wild garlic is also a spring herb that is commonly found in parks and forests. This recipes can also be made using rehydrated dried morels.

Serves 4.

Creation by Joris Bijdendijk, RIJKS®, Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

Morel mushrooms with wild garlic and wild herbs

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Ingredients

32

 

fresh morel mushrooms

100

ml

vegetable stock

50

g

butter

500

ml

chicken stock

100

ml

white wine

100

ml

sushi vinegar

200

ml

wild garlic oil

2

 

egg whites

1

 

celeriac

100

ml

white wine vinegar

100

g

sugar

6

 

cocktail onions

As needed:

 

wild herbs (yarrow, pimpernel, white nettle, cabbage flowers, ground ivy flowers, lesser celandine)

Preparation method: glazed morels
  • Cut the ends of the morels and rinse them until all the sand has been removed. If the morels are very dirty on the inside you can also remove a bit off the top to allow the water to run through.
  • Steam the morels in 5ml vegetable stock or in a pan with 25g butter.
  • Cook for two minutes with the lid on the pan.
  • Remove the morels from the liquid.
  • Reduce the remaining liquid.
  • Heat 25g butter in a frying pan. Add the morels and gently fry them.
  • Add the reduced liquid.
  • When the liquid coats the morels then they are properly glazed.
Preparation method: wild garlic sauce
  • Bring the chicken stock and wine to the boil. Add the sushi vinegar and pour the liquid through a fine-meshed sieve.
  • Add the two egg whites and blend with a hand-held blender.
  • Continue to blend while adding the wild garlic oil drop by drop until it becomes a homogeneous emulsion.
  • Season the sauce with salt and pepper and extra wild garlic oil if needed.
Preparation method: celeriac brunoise
  • Peel the celeriac and finely dice (brunoise).
  • Put the vinegar and sugar in a pan and bring to the boil.
  • Pour the mixture over the diced celeriac and let them cool in the liquid.
Preparation method: steamed cocktail onions
  • Peel the onions and cook them in water for ten minutes.
  • Chop the onions in half and season to taste with salt.
Finishing & presentation
  • Pour the wild garlic oil on the plate in a circle.
  • Place the pieces of sweet and sour celeriac in the sauce. Then place the onions on top of the celeriac and top off with the glazed morels.
  • Garnish the dish with wild herbs.

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