Gastronomixs

Mushroom Flight of Fancy

Mushroom Flight of Fancy Enlarge

As the son of a butcher, guest chef Laurent Petit came into contact with products from the family business at an early age. He tells us his story. ‘Charcuterie, or cold cuts, appealed to me, but I felt there was a lack of elegance: my desire for finesse led me to the kitchen.’ After working at Le Pied de Cochon, the famous brasserie in Paris, and Michel Guérard's restaurant Les Prés d'Eugénie*** in Eugénie-les-Bains, it became clear to him that he wanted to become a chef, and nothing else.

At his own restaurant, Le Clos des Sens*** in Annecy-le-Vieux, he has refined his art and received great recognition for it. He has had great success with his 'lake-based cuisine': his cooking focuses not on meat but on organic fish such as crayfish from Lake Geneva. Laurent's vision is uncompromising. The spotlight is on the product in all its forms: the colours, shapes, volumes, textures, and original taste. The most subtle fish from the Savoyard lakes and the Albanais vegetables are showcased in his dishes and rival the more luxurious products of French gastronomy. His cooking is constantly evolving, making a return to its roots: products, terroir, taste identity, and vegetables grown in the region. Laurent Petit embodies the movement towards prioritising short channels and partnerships with local producers living off their land.

Creation by Laurent Petit, restaurant Clos des Sens***, Annecy-le-Vieux, France.

Serves 1.

Ingredients

5

l

water

2,5

kg

mushrooms

100

g

dried mushrooms (wild mushrooms)

250

g

mushroom broth

1,5

g

agar agar

As needed:

 

flavoured oil

 

 

salt and pepper

500

g

mushrooms

25

g

shallots

0.5

clove

garlic

20

 

butter

150

g

single cream

 

 

salt and pepper

500

g

apple vinegar

500

g

white balsamic vinegar

250

g

dried mushrooms

5

 

black peppercorns

1

sprig

thyme

1

 

bay leaf

100

g

dried mushrooms

As needed:

 

mushrooms

As needed:

 

flavoured oil

 

 

salt and peper

As needed:

 

shallots

As needed:

 

butter

 

 

salt and peper

As needed:

 

shallots

As needed:

 

rapeseed oil

 

 

salt

As needed:

 

mushroom broth

As needed:

 

butter

 

 

salt

250

g

raw Saumur mushrooms (or from local region), extra fresh

   

Bex salt grains (Alpine salt)

 

 

mushroom sauce

 

 

flavoured oil

Preparation method: mushroom broth
  • Place everything in a pan, bring to the boil and allow to cook for 5 hours.
  • Sieve the mixture and reduce in order to concentrate the flavours and give 1 litre.
Preparation method: mushroom jelly
  • Extract 250 grams of the mushroom broth and bring to the boil in a saucepan.
  • Reserve the remaining mushroom broth for the preparation of the mushroom sauce.
  • Season with salt and pepper, then add the agar-agar.
  • Mix well with a whisk and leave to cook for one minute. Remove from the heat.
  • Set to cool and allow to gel.
  • Cut into cubes, season with the flavoured oil, salt and pepper.
Preparation method: mushroom condiment  
  • Finely chop the mushrooms, then sweat in the butter with the garlic and shallots.
  • Once the water from the mushrooms has evaporated, season with salt and pepper and add the cream.
  • Cook on a low heat for 10 minutes, then mix in the thermo blender.
  • Pass through a conical muslin strainer.            
Preparation method: mushroom vinegar
  • Mix everything together and allow to marinate for at least 6 months.
  • Then pass through a strainer and reduce in a saucepan to obtain a syrup.
Preparation method: mushroom powder
  • Mix the dried mushrooms in the thermo blender and pass through a medium-mesh sieve so as to obtain a fine powder.
Preparation method: cooked mushroom
  • Cook the mushrooms at low temperature in the oven at 70°C for 1 hour with the flavoured oil and salt and pepper, in an airtight container.                    
Preparation method: stewed shallots 
  • Finely chop the shallots. Use 20 grams of shallots per serving, with 5 grams of butter.
  • Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the shallots.
  • Leave to stew until translucent and season with salt and pepper.      
Preparation method: fried shallots  
  • Finely chop the shallots. Use 10 grams of shallots per serving.
  • Fry the shallots in rapeseed oil.
  • Once the shallot is golden brown, drain and spread out on a piece of kitchen paper in order to remove the excess fat.
  • Season with salt.            
Preparation method: mushroom sauce   
  • Concentrate the mushroom broth by reducing it, in order to obtain very strong flavours.
  • Use 100 millilitres of reduced broth per serving, then whisk in 10 grams of butter.
  • Add a little salt if needed.                                             
Preparation method: raw mushrooms   
  • Select the mushrooms that are the most closed.
  • Cut into fine slices measuring 1/3 of a millilitre in thickness.
Finishing and presentation
  • Place a generous spoonful (20 grams) of the heated mushroom condiment in the centre of the plate.
  • On top of this, add a spoonful (15 grams) of the mushroom jelly.
  • Sprinkle 3 drops of mushroom vinegar over this.
  • Then place a cold, cooked mushroom rolled in the mushroom powder on top.
  • Top with the stewed shallots, then the fried shallots.
  • Finish by adding the sliced raw mushrooms on the very top so as to create a light and airy structure in the shape of a globe.
  • Season with grains of Bex salt and drops of flavoured oil, serve lukewarm with 100 millilitres of mushroom sauce.

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