Gastronomixs

Naiboa

Chef Karlos Enrique Ponte Maldonado grew up in Venezuela. Together with fellow Venezuelan Luis Moreno and the Dane Jacob Brink Lauridsen, Ponte opened Restaurant Taller in Copenhagen, where he works as chef. These three met while working together at noma. Taller means 'workshop' in Spanish and the word embodies the culinary ambitions of this team.

Before opening Taller, Ponte worked in a restaurant specialising in Asian cuisine in Copenhagen and also hosted a television programme about the Venezuelan kitchen. His ambition is to make his mark on gastronomy with a unique combination of tradition and avant garde that is characterised by working together with small-scale producers to develop a sustainable gastronomy. Ponte defines his style of cooking as having developed from a journey of discovery that was influenced by different mentors, local producers, traditional cooking, the landscape, modern chefs, travelling with his father, the kiss of his mother, and his memory of her scent.

Naiboa is a traditional sweet that is sold on the streets of Venezuela. It is made of casabe (flat bread made of cassava root) spread with melted panela (raw sugar) and fresh cheese. This sweet serves as the inspiration for the flavours of this dessert.

Creation by Karlos Ponte, Restaurant Taller, Copenhagen, Denmark.

Naiboa

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Ingredients

1

kg

cassava root

1.5

l

milk

120

g

sugar

20

g

glycerine

100

g

Sosa Procrema 100 (or other ice cream stabiliser)

500

g

yoghurt

100

g

icing sugar

5

g

Metil

5

g

Xantana

200

g

goat cheese

300

g

cream

150

g

milk

75

g

sugar

250

g

lime peel

 

 

lime juice as needed

 

 

Xantana as needed

250

g

water

250

g

honey

2

 

gelatin sheets

250

g

mote corn

70

g

sunflower oil

Preparation method: yuca ice cream
  • Roast the peeled cassava to a brown colour in a dry oven for fifteen minutes at 220°C.
  • Pull vacuum the warm cassava and milk and infuse for twelve hours.
  • Sieve the mixture and allow to rest, giving the sediment time to settle.
  • Discard the sediment.
  • Blend the 1000 grams of the yuca-milk mixture with the rest of the ingredients.
  • Freeze completely and run through a Pacojet.
Preparation method: yoghurt sheets
  • Blend all the ingredients in a Thermomix until smooth. Rest for fifteen minutes.
  • Spread onto Excalibur sheets in 2mm layers and dehydrate for 24 hours at 58°C.
  • Cut in 4 to 5 cm irregular pieces, store dry.
Preparation method: goat cheese foam
  • Blend all the ingredients in a Thermomix at 70°C until smooth.
  • Pass the mixture through a sieve and into a 1 litre siphon.
  • Charge the siphon with two gas cartridges and set-aside until ready to use.
Preparation method: lime peel purée
  • In a saucepan, combine the lime peel with enough cold water to cover it.
  • Bring to a boil, and then discard the water. Repeat three times.
  • Blend the boiled lime peel with the lime juice until the desired texture is reached.
  • Using a hand mixer, blend the mixture with Xantana (at a ratio of four grams Xantana to 1000 grams mixture).
  • Save in a squeeze bottle.
Preparation method: honey gelatin
  • Soak the gelatin sheets in cold water.
  • Blend the water and the honey together and divide into two equal parts.
  • Put one half of the mixture in a saucepan to heat up and set aside the other half.
  • Heat up half of the mixture over low heat.
  • Squeeze out the excess water from the soaked gelatin and mix into the saucepan.
  • Stir until the gelatin is completely dissolved.
  • Pour in the other half of the honey-water mixture and allow to set until ready to use.
  • Cut into small 0.5 cm irregular pieces.
Preparation method: fried corn
  • Soak the corn in water for 24 hours.
  • In a pressure cooker cook the corn for about twenty minutes until tender but still retaining its shape.
  • Drain and reserve.
  • Warm up a pan with the sunflower oil, add the corn and fry at a high temperature for about five minutes moving it constantly so it doesn’t burn.
  • Place the fried corn on a metal tray and bake in a dry over at 200°C for approximately twenty minutes until the corn gets a roasted colour. It is important to move the corn every five minutes while it is in the oven to prevent it from burning.
  • Season with a little salt and allow to cool.
  • Place the cooled fried corn in a plastic bag and crush with the help of a knife on a flat surface: the idea is to get small pieces of crushed corn but with different sizes.
Finishing & presentation
  • Spread the fried corn and the honey gelatin on the centre of the plate.
  • Add five dots of lime purée.
  • Place a quenelle of the cassava ice cream.
  • Top the quenelle with five sheets of yoghurt.
  • In a pot with nitrogen make a couple of lines of goat cheese foam of 8 cm long on top of the nitrogen. Do this in front of the guest. Use a slotted spoon to break the frozen foam into popcorn-sized pieces and place these on the plate.

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