Gastronomixs

Pumpkin Pi

The guest chef for June is Will Goldfarb, owner and pastry chef at the dessert restaurant Room4Dessert in Ubud, Bali. Will grew up in New York. He moved to Paris where he trained as a pastry chef. His vision of patisserie changed completely when he joined ElBulli***, where he had the opportunity to learn from Albert Adrià. He returned to New York where he opened Room 4 Dessert in 2006. Despite accolades and rave reviews, the restaurant closed in 2007.  In 2014, Will opened Room 4 Dessert in Ubud. The restaurant is a resounding success, and Will is doing what he does best: focusing on the flavors; the ideas; and the amazing team. His desserts are beautiful, perfect creations; edible works of art, inspired by books, films, and music. All ingredients are local, particularly the 150 types of plants Room4Dessert currently plants on site. You can see more about Will on his Chef’s Table Episode. And read more from his book published in 2018 by Phaidon. You can find more of the ingredients at Willpowder. Will shared three dishes from the book with us.
Will about this dish. ‘I didn’t really understand the idea of caramelised coconut until I had a chance to play host to David Thompson from Nahm when I was still organising the I’m An Angel Foundation events at KuDeTa. In a moment that has stayed with me ever since, in which it was clear that we were going to have to start cooking dessert for two hundred people just a few hours before they arrived, and without any recipes or guidelines, it was time to step up and just make it happen. So we steamed some taro and cracked some eggs. We were trying to make a palm sugar custard but the coconut milk just wasn’t caramelised enough. So we kept cooking the hell out of it –I mean really letting that coconut milk have it –way past beurre noisette and into some new fifth dimension of caramelisation that makes Vantablack look like pumpkin pie.’

Will about this dish. ‘I didn’t really understand the idea of caramelised coconut until I had a chance to play host to David Thompson from Nahm when I was still organising the I’m An Angel Foundation events at KuDeTa. In a moment that has stayed with me ever since, in which it was clear that we were going to have to start cooking dessert for two hundred people just a few hours before they arrived, and without any recipes or guidelines, it was time to step up and just make it happen. So we steamed some taro and cracked some eggs. We were trying to make a palm sugar custard but the coconut milk just wasn’t caramelised enough. So we kept cooking the hell out of it –I mean really letting that coconut milk have it –way past beurre noisette and into some new fifth dimension of caramelisation that makes Vantablack look like pumpkin pie.’

Creation by Will Goldfarb, Room4Dessert restaurant, Ubud, Indonesia. 
Goldfarb, W. (2018). Room for dessert. Phaidon, p.88.

Pumpkin Pi

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Ingredients

1.9

l

coconut milk

80

g

sugar

1.5

g

all-purpose stabiliser

250

g

black glutinous rice

500

g

water

250

g

fresh coconut water

5

g

white vinegar

As needed:

 

black rice milk

25

g

sugar

25

g

coconut vinegar

500

ml

black rice vinegar

170

g

pumpkin

5

g

olive oil

50

g

palm sugar

50

g

water

60

g

pumpkin purée

48

g

palm sugar

36

g

eggs

42

g

coconut oil

25

g

yoghurt

 

 

salt

0.4

g

baking soda

54

g

flour

¼

 

vanilla pod

35

g

black glutinous rice

1

g

black rice vinegar

50

g

black glutinous rice

200

g

neutral oil

As needed:

 

salt

Preparation method: caramelised coconut gelato
  • Reduce 250g coconut milk until it starts to caramelise, then deglaze the pan with a further 250g coconut milk. Repeat until a total of 1 litre of coconut milk has been caramelised in this way.
  • When the solid matter turns golden brown, remove from the heat.
  • Strain the oil, then use the hand blender to blend to a smooth paste.
  • Place the remaining coconut milk in a pan with the sugar and bring to the boil. Add the stabiliser.
  • Bring back to a rapid boil briefly to make sure that the hydrocolloids are respectively dissolved, emulsified, dispersed, suspended, and ultimately ready to use.
  • Remove from the heat, add the coconut milk and sugar mixture and the caramelised coconut milk and emulsify well.
  • Strain and leave to mature overnight in the refrigerator, and then process according to the ice-cream machine manufacturer’s instructions.
Preparation method: black rice vinegar jus
  • Reduce the vinegar gently until you get a nice shiny jus.
  • Keep to one side and allow to cool. 
Preparation method: black rice milk
  • Rinse the black rice with water.
  • Puree and blend with fresh water.
  • Leave for one month.
  • Strain through a cheesecloth and use to make the vinegar. 
Preparation method: coconut vinegar
  • Leave the coconut water outside for a month to sour.
  • Skim off the cream and filter the sour coconut water.
  • Correct the pH with the vinegar as necessary.
  • Allow to mature and filter again.
Preparation method: black rice vinegar
  • Put the black rice milk and sugar in a fermentation jar for one to two days until aromas develop.
  • Cover with the sugar and water solution, making sure it is fully submerged.
  • Leave it in a cool, dark place for about three weeks, stirring regularly to speed up  the process and to prevent surface mould forming.
  • Once bubbles start to form, strain, add the vinegar, and then leave for three weeks, stirring every three days until its acidity and aromas develop.
  • Transfer to a sealed vessel to stop the acetic acid fermentation.
Preparation method: grilled pumpkin
  • Place the sugar and water in a pan and bring to the boil.
  • Simmer until the sugar has dissolved and the liquid has thickened to a syrupy consistency.
  • Cut the pumpkin into wedges and brush with oil.
  • Lightly grill over coffeewood embers.
  • Toss with palm sugar syrup and finish in a medium oven until tender yet still with some bite.
Preparation method: pumpkin cakes
  • Whisk the pumpkin purée together with the sugar, eggs, oil, and yoghurt.
  • Sieve the dry ingredients together and fold into the mixture.
  • Cover and allow to rest overnight at room temperature.
  • Preheat the oven to 180°C.
  • Fill a muffin tin or cake moulds with the batter.
  • Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden but tender and moist on the inside.
Preparation method: black rice paper
  • Soak the rice overnight.
  • Steam the rice and blend with the vinegar and salt until smooth.
  • Spread in a thin layer between two sheets of acetate and then peel the sheets apart.
  • Sprinkle with vinegar and salt.
  • Dehydrate and store dry.
  • Fry to order.
Preparation method: rengginang (puffed rice)
  • Soak the rice overnight.
  • Steam the rice.
  • Using a dehydrator, dry out the individual grains of rice and fry them in oil when ready to use.
  • Season with a little salt and store dry.
Finishing and presentation:
  • Bake your cake or break off a piece of your baked cake.
  • Glaze your cake with palm sugar and puffed rice.
  • Add some grilled pumpkin and caramelised coconut gelato and drizzle with reduced vinegar.
  • Top with black rice paper.

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