Gastronomixs

Scarborough Pear

The guest chef for June is Will Goldfarb, owner and pastry chef at the dessert restaurant Room4Dessert in Ubud, Bali. Will grew up in New York. He moved to Paris where he trained as a pastry chef. His vision of patisserie changed completely when he joined ElBulli***, where he had the opportunity to learn from Albert Adrià. He returned to New York where he opened Room 4 Dessert in 2006. Despite accolades and rave reviews, the restaurant closed in 2007.  In 2014, Will opened Room 4 Dessert in Ubud. The restaurant is a resounding success, and Will is doing what he does best: focusing on the flavors; the ideas; and the amazing team. His desserts are beautiful, perfect creations; edible works of art, inspired by books, films, and music. All ingredients are local, particularly the 150 types of plants Room4Dessert currently plants on site. You can see more about Will on his Chef’s Table Episode. And read more from his book published in 2018 by Phaidon. You can find more of the ingredients at Willpowder. Will shared three dishes from the book with us.

Will talks about his dish. ‘When I was struggling for survival as a pastry chef in the basement of Cru, I had a bit of a eureka moment. I felt like I needed a “screenplay”. We were working on a pear dish featuring a pear en papillote, lightly steamed and dressed lightly. Chef was not impressed, however.

‘I tried to extract useful and feasible action points from the criticism and came up with some pear tempura and a savoury sage-filled sabayon which I just couldn’t help but top up with some parsley and rosemary. I hate thyme, otherwise it would have had the full list from the song Scarborough Fair”. It’s a great dessert with no delusions of grandeur... until now.’

Creation by Will Goldfarb, Room 4 Dessert restaurant, Ubud, Indonesia. 
Goldfarb, W. (2018). Room for dessert. Phaidon, p.68.

Scarborough Pear

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Ingredients

200

g

apple

20

g

lime juice

35

g

simple syrup (1:1)

165

g

fresh milk

30

g

sugar

8

g

sage

4

g

rosemary

3

g

parsley

30

g

egg yolks

7

g

cornflour

100

g

cream, whipped

125

g

apple scraps and core

500

g

coconut water

5

g

coconut vinegar

65

g

sugar

15

g

apple vinegar

15

g

cream (35% fat)

65

g

apple juice

10

g

pumpkin seed oil

15

g

butter

200

g

small green apple

500

g

apple juice

20

g

apple vinegar

50

g

croissant, day old

65

g

cold carbonated water

25

g

cornflour

15

g

cake flour

50

g

Balinese arak or cane spirit

2

g

baking powder

1

g

baking soda

As needed:

 

sea salt

100

g

parsley

50

g

sunflower oil

Preparation method: homemade apple juice granité

  • Juice the apple, add the lime juice, and cool quickly to avoid discoloration.
  • Add the simple syrup and freeze in quantities of around 30g in a round mould around.
  • Save the apple scraps for the homemade apple vinegar. 

Preparation method: rosemary and sage diplomat cream

  • Boil the milk with half the sugar, then infuse with the herbs covered and off the heat for two hours or overnight.
  • Strain the mixture, then add milk up to the original weight of the mixture before boiling and infusing and straining. Proceed as if making crème patissiere: boil the infused milk, blanch the yolk with sugar, then temper the egg yolks with the hot milk.
  • Heat until the mixture reaches 84°C.
  • Allow to cool and set, using plastic film on top to prevent a starchy skin forming. Fold in the whipped cream once cool. 

Preparation method: apple vinegar

  • Leave the apple scraps and cores in a fermentation jar for a day or two until the aromas have developed, then cover the apple with coconut water, making sure the apple is fully covered by the coconut water.
  • Leave in a cool, dark place for about three weeks, stirring regularly to speed up the process and to prevent surface mould forming. Once bubbles start to form, strain and then leave for a further three weeks, stirring every three days.
  • Transfer to a sealed vessel to stop the acetic acid fermenting further. 

Preparation method: apple caramel toffee sauce

  • Place the sugar in a heavy-based pan and heat gently for five to ten minutes, stirring until lightly caramelised.
  • Carefully add the vinegar to deglaze so it resembles a gastrique.
  • Reduce it ever so slightly to create a tart syrup.
  • Add the juice and the cream, and heat until the temperature reaches 106°C.
  • Allow to cool.
  • When the mixture reaches 50°C, emulsify with the oil and butter.

Preparation method: poached apple

  • Peel and core the small apples, reserving the scraps for the homemade apple vinegar.
  • Poach the apple in the apple juice and the vinegar until tender.

Preparation method: croissant tempura batter

  • Blend the croissant with the carbonated water until smooth.
  • Add the remaining ingredients, folding in until only just mixed.
  • Coat the poached apple with seasoned rice flour, and then coat with the tempura batter.

Preparation method: parsley oil

  • Blanch and shock the parsley.
  • Squeeze out the excess water and chop coarsely.
  • Freeze in a PacoJet canister with the oil. Blend in the Pacojet once. Refreeze and blend again. Defrost and filter.

Finishing and presentation:

  • Place some cream on the plate, add the granité, and drizzle a little oil around.
  • Fry the apple, taking care to dab any excess oil off it.
  • Quickly add a little sauce, top with croissant tempura, and serve immediately.

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