Gastronomixs

Tomato mozzarella and again

Tomato mozzarella and again Enlarge

This month’s guest chef is Paul Pairet. Paul was born and trained in France and runs three different types of restaurants in Shanghai: a popular French modern eatery ‘Mr & Mrs Bund’, a cafe 'Polux', and the avant-garde and experimental ‘Ultraviolet’ which received three Michelin stars in September 2017 and which has been ranked among ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ since 2015.

Paul first came to notice at Paris’s Cafe Mosaic. Critics talked of Mosaic and of Alain Ducasse’s Spoon in equal terms. In fact, Pairet’s cooking at Mosaic made such an impression on Ducasse that it was the master chef himself who plucked Pairet out and arranged his next move to Istanbul. Pairet then took his talents to the Ritz-Carlton’s Cam, where he turned the hotel outfit into the city’s first cutting-edge restaurant. He was to repeat the task in Shanghai where he ultimately opened his three restaurants, including Ultraviolet***.

Paul approaches cooking, ingredients, techniques, textures, and flavours with a lack of prejudice and an unbiased opinion without regard for national boundaries or ‘class’ devoid of context and reputation.
‘Above all, flavours should taste divine, assertive, sending taste buds into raptures and the mind travelling on a bite through countries or found memories’. Besides flavours, Pairet plays with texture and smell, he tricks the eye, cracks jokes in dishes, challenges pre-conceived ideas, and expectations, and makes you think for a second, making you wonder how and why. 

In describing this dish, Paul says: ‘The coexistence of a savoury dish together with its sweet mimetic opens a new powerful concept of taste mis-perception: The twin concept. Only the taste could differentiate both dishes.’

Creation by Paul Pairet, Ultraviolet***, Shanghai.
Photography by Scott Wright Limelight Studio.

Ingredients

1000

g

cherry tomato 

35

g

garlic 

100

g

sherry vinegar 

15

g

salt 

15

g

Pernod Ricard 

15

g

basil leaves 

500

g

tomato infusion  

50

g

balsamic reduction 

25

g

beetroot reduction 

500

g

tomato base 

50

g

olive oil 

10

g

balsamic reduction 

5

g

beetroot reduction 

2.5

g

Xantana Texturas 

200

g

tomato base 

1

g

agar 

1

sheet

gelatin

1.5

kg

raspberries

1

kg

strawberries

1.5

kg

water

150

g

sugar

500

g

red fruit mix 

7

g

balsamic reduction 

15

g

beetroot reduction 

30

g

vanilla oil 

2

g

Xantana Texturas 

200

g

red fruit base

1

g

agar 

1

sheet

gelatin

30

g

Maldon salt

2

g

lemon zest

1

unit

red tomato pulp  

3

drop

olive oil  

2

drop

tomato reduction  

30

g

sugar 

2

g

lemon zest 

1

unit

tomato pulp

3

drops

vanilla oil

2

drops

strawberry reduction

200

g

mozzarella 

200

g

mozzarella water 

100

g

cream 

30

g

olive oil 

4

sheets

gelatin

25

g

sugar 

25

g

crème fraiche 

25

g

goat’s cheese

1

block

Gruyere cheese (11x11cm)

250

g

light soy sauce

250

g

water

250

g

sable crumb 

300

g

simple syrup 

10

g

orange reduction 

As needed:

 

sherry vinegar

10

 

black olives, brined

10

 

black olives, candied

As needed:

 

basil, arugula, tarragon, oregano

As needed:

 

olive oil

As needed:

 

balsamic reduction

Preparation method: tomato infusion 
  • Juice the cherry tomato. 
  • Add the crushed garlic and bruised basil.
  • Add the remaining ingredients.
  • Infuse overnight. 
  • Sieve through a fine mesh chinois. 
 Preparation method: tomato base 
  • Combine all the ingredients.
  • Hand blend them and strain through a sieve.  
Preparation method: tomato coulis/granite 
  • Hand blend the liquid in a narrow container.  
  • Adjust the colour with beetroot and balsamic reduction if necessary in order to match the colour of the red fruit coulis. 
  • Add the Xantana and hand blend at low speed until the mixture attains the consistency of coulis.  
  • Sieve through a fine mesh chinois and divide the mixture into two.  
  • Transfer one half to a Paco jet and freeze to make the granite.  
  • Store the second half in a small tip squeeze bottle and refrigerate.  
Preparation method: tomato gel 
  • Combine the base with agar. Boil, sieve, and add gelatin. 
  • Pour level into 12x12cm square moulds. Set in fridge. 
  • Cut into 1.5cm square portions that are 1cm thick. 
Preparation method: red fruit base
  • Vacuum pack the raspberries with 1.5l water and 50g sugar.
  • Steam for two hours at 100°C.
  • Strain through a coffee filter.
  • Vacuum pack the strawberries and the remaining 100g of sugar.
  • Steam for one hour at 100°C.
  • Decant in the refrigerator for twelve hours.   
  • Strain through a coffee filter. 
  • Mix 250g raspberry water with 125g strawberry water.
Preparation method: red fruit coulis/granite 
  • Hand blend the liquid in a narrow container.  
  • Adjust the colour with beetroot and balsamic reduction if necessary, in order to match the colour of the tomato coulis. 
  • Add the Xantana and hand blend at low speed until the mixture attains the consistency of coulis.  
  • Sieve through a fine mesh chinois and divide the mixture into two.  
  • Transfer one half to a Paco jet and freeze to make the granite. 
  • Store the second half in a small tip squeeze bottle and refrigerate.  
Preparation method: red fruit gel 
  • Combine the 200g of fruit water mixture with agar.
  • Boil, sieve, and add the gelatin. 
  • Pour level into 12x12cm square moulds. Set in fridge. 
  • Cut into 1.5cm square portions that are 1cm thick. 
Preparation method: savoury tomato pulp
  • Mix the Maldon salt with the lemon zest and set aside.
  • Mix the tomato pulp, olive oil, and tomato reduction.
  • Add a pinch of the lemon salt.
Preparation method: sweet tomato pulp
  • Mix the sugar with the lemon zest and set aside.
  • Mix the tomato pulp, vanilla oil, and strawberry reduction.
  • Add a pinch of the lemon sugar.
Preparation method: sweet and savoury mozzarella
  • Make the base by combining the mozzarella with the water and 10g olive oil.
  • Vita-prep at full speed until warm and then add the gelatin.
  • Fold in the cream using a spatula. 
  • Sieve through a chinois sieve. 
  • Hand blend 250g mozzarella base with the sugar and crème fraiche for the sweet mozzarella.
  • Hand blend 250g mozzarella base with the goat’s cheese and the remaining olive oil for the savoury mozzarella.
Preparation method: Gruyere tuile 
  • Slice gruyere cheese on a slicer, 1mm thick. 
  • Combine the light soy sauce and water and marinate the Gruyere slices overnight. 
  • Remove from the liquid.
  • Melt slowly in a non-stick pan on a low heat. 
  • Remove the Gruyere from the pan when crispy, portion when warm into 4x4cm squares. 
Preparation method: sable tuile 
  • Mix the crumb, simple syrup, and orange reduction into a purée in a robot coupe.
  • Spread a thin layer (1mm) onto a silicone mat. 
  • Bake at 180°C for eight minutes with a low fan speed.
  • Cool to room temperature. 
  • Portion on a warm surface. 
  • Store in an air tight container with silicon. 
Finishing and presentation
  • Prepare two plates that look identical in design but which will taste different.  
  • One version will be savoury, the other version will be sweet.  
  • For the savoury plate, start plating by arranging the tomato coulis in a semi-circle on the plate.  
  • Add the savoury mozzarella and spoon on the savoury tomato pulp. 
  • Add the brined black olives. 
  • Marinate raspberries in sherry vinegar for 30 minutes and then add. 
  • Add the olive oil, and balsamic reduction.
  • Add the leaves.
  • Add the tomato gel and Gruyere tuile. 
  • Prepare the granite by pouring it into nitrogen, breaking it into rocks with your hands, and dividing it on the plate. 
  • Plate the sweet dish exactly the same as the savoury one using the sweet tomato pulp, red fruit coulis, vanilla oil, balsamic reduction, candied black olives, sweet mozzarella, red fruit gel, sable tuile, raspberry granite, and the leaves.

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