Gastronomixs

Topside of Müritz lamb with Frankfurt green sauce, potato, and egg

This month's guest chef is the German Sven Elverfeld from Restaurant Aqua*** in Wolfsburg, Germany. After Elverfeld graduated from the Hotel Management School in Heidelberg as a Certified Restaurateur and Chef in 1998, he commenced his career at The Ritz-Carlton. From 1998 to 2000 he managed the fine-dining restaurant La Baie Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai. In January 2000 he went back to Germany to join the pre-opening team at The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg, located in Volkswagen’s visitor attraction Autostadt. After more than fourteen years in Restaurant Aqua, chef Sven Elverfeld is an unmissable member of the list of top German chefs, and he has also established himself and the restaurant on an international level. With excellent craftsmanship he and his team create exceptional dining moments for their guests. Working beyond a defined style and apart from trends, Elverfeld creates a symbiosis of tradition and modernism. Never-varying high quality and exceptional richness of flavour together with visual aesthetics in his creations have earned him honours. Quite often his dishes reconnect to a personal memory and tell their own story. In the process, he not only ensures the topmost quality of all ingredients he utilises but also highlights a pronounced regional reference of the products. The Frankfurt-style green sauce is a specialty from Elverfeld’s home region, traditionally made from seven different herbs. 

Creation by Sven Elverfeld, Restaurant Aqua***, Wolfsburg, Germany.

Serves 4.

Topside of Müritz lamb with Frankfurt green sauce, potato, and egg

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Ingredients

400-500

g

topside of Müritz lamb

80

g

mirepoix

 

 

dry white wine

½

clove

garlic

1

 

bay leaf

1

 

juniper berry

1

 

allspice berry

2

 

white peppercorns

 

 

sea salt

 

 

white pepper, freshly milled

 

 

light lamb stock (made from Müritz lamb)

1

 

large waxy potato

 

 

sea salt

a little

 

butter sauce

 

 

soft butter

 

 

Maldon salt

 

 

vegetable oil for deep frying

1

 

finely chopped shallot

 

 

white balsamic vinegar

20

ml

grape seed oil

150

g

sour cream

80

g

yoghurt

3

g

tarragon mustard

 

 

grape seed oil

 

 

salt

 

 

white pepper, freshly milled

 

 

sugar

 

 

lemon juice, freshly pressed

300

g

herb mixture of at least seven different kinds, all plucked and washed. Suitable herbs include curly-leaf parsley, chives, chervil, sorrel, borage, garden cress, tarragon, lovage, lemon balm, salad burnet, and dill

180

g

egg white

130

g

cream (at least 33% fat)

 

 

salt

4

 

quail’s eggs

 

 

grapeseed oil

Preparation method: topside
  • Trim the meat carefully and put the trimmings in a pot with the mirepoix, white wine, ½ clove of garlic, the spices, and some water and bring to the boil.
  • Season the topside with salt and white pepper and brown briefly on all sides so that the pores close and then put into the boiling stock.
  • Immediately reduce heat to 85°C and cook gently until the meat slides slowly from the fork.
  • Cover the meat with a damp tea cloth and put in the refrigerator to cool. When it has cooled, seal in a vacuum bag. Just before serving, remove the topside from the bag and cut into slices 5mm thick, then cut the slices into rectangles of 3.5cm x 11cm.
  • Before serving, heat the slices in a little reduced lamb stock. Finally, glaze with a brushing of thickened lamb stock and season with sea salt.
Preparation method: egg white slice with warm quail’s egg yolk
  • Blend together the egg white and the cream. Season with salt and strain through a microsieve.
  • Spread the mixture evenly onto a small tray lined with cling film to a depth of 4mm and cover with more cling film. Cook at 86°C steam for 42 minutes.
  • After it has cooled, remove the upper layer of cling film and cut the egg white into rectangles of 7.5cm x 3cm. On one end, cut out a circle of 2cm.
  • Take the quail eggs and carefully separate the egg yolks from the whites. The whites can be saved for another use.
  • Put the yolks in separate little bowls or cups and pour in the grape seed oil to cover completely. Before serving, pour salt water heated to 85°C into the bowls with the quail eggs and the oil and leave to draw for about 40 seconds. Finally, gently take the yolks out of the bowls.
Preparation method: boiled potatoes and deep-fried potatoes
  • Wash and peel the potatoes and cut into slices of 4mm. Then cut the slices into rectangles of 3.5cm x 8cm.
  • Cook the potatoes in salt water until still firm and then quench in ice water.
  • Shortly before serving, heat the potatoes in a small amount of the butter sauce, then sprinkle with Maldon salt and brush with a little soft butter.
  • Cut the remaining potato into thin slices of 1mm and then cut the slices into fine strips 1cm long.
  • Deep-fry the strips in vegetable oil until golden brown.
  • These strips will be added to the herb salad before serving.
Preparation method: Frankfurt green sauce and herb salad
  • For the herb salad, put 10g mixed herbs in a bowl and refrigerate.
  • Put all the other herbs and ingredients for the green sauce into a large blender and blend until fine for about 3 minutes.
  • Strain through a sieve and season with salt, pepper, sugar, and a dash of lemon juice. Before serving, season the herb leaves for the salad with lemon juice, grapeseed oil, salt, and white pepper.
Finishing and presentation
  • Arrange all the components on the plates to make a square.
  • Place the lukewarm egg white brushed with oil at the upper right of the plate. The cut-out circle should be at the upper right.
  • Slide the warm quail egg yolk into the cut-out circle of the egg white. Place the slice of potato in line with the bottom of the egg white and the slice of topside along the top edge of the egg.
  • Spread the green sauce in the centre of the plates in between the potato and the meat. Finish off by arranging the herb salad as a little bouquet on top of the green sauce and garnishing with the crispy strips of potato.

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