Gastronomixs

Truffle burnt soup bread

This month’s guest chef is Paul Pairet. Paul was born and trained in France and runs three different types of restaurants in Shanghai: a popular French modern eatery ‘Mr & Mrs Bund’, a cafe 'Polux', and the avant-garde and experimental ‘Ultraviolet’ which received three Michelin stars in September 2017 and which has been ranked among ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ since 2015.

Paul first came to notice at Paris’s Cafe Mosaic. Critics talked of Mosaic and of Alain Ducasse’s Spoon in equal terms. In fact, Pairet’s cooking at Mosaic made such an impression on Ducasse that it was the master chef himself who plucked Pairet out and arranged his next move to Istanbul. Pairet then took his talents to the Ritz-Carlton’s Cam, where he turned the hotel outfit into the city’s first cutting-edge restaurant. He was to repeat the task in Shanghai where he ultimately opened his three restaurants, including Ultraviolet***.

Paul approaches cooking, ingredients, techniques, textures, and flavours with a lack of prejudice and an unbiased opinion without regard for national boundaries or ‘class’ devoid of context and reputation.
‘Above all, flavours should taste divine, assertive, sending taste buds into raptures and the mind travelling on a bite through countries or found memories’. Besides flavours, Pairet plays with texture and smell, he tricks the eye, cracks jokes in dishes, challenges pre-conceived ideas, and expectations, and makes you think for a second, making you wonder how and why. This dish, truffle burnt soup bread is served at Mr & Mrs Bund and Ultraviolet.

Creation by Paul Pairet, Ultraviolet***, Shanghai.
Photography by Scott Wright Limelight Studio.

Truffle burnt soup bread

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Ingredients

120

g

burnt butter

80

g

butter

50

g

light soy sauce

120

g

water

30

g

fresh lemon juice

3

slices

whole wheat toast

120

g

burnt butter

80

g

butter

50

g

light soy sauce

400

g

water

2.5

g

soy lecithin

1

 

truffle, sliced

Preparation method: bread meuniere sauce
  • Combine all the ingredients except for the lemon juice.
  • Bring to the boil and add the lemon juice.
  • Hand blend. 
Preparation method: whole wheat toast
  • Cut whole wheat bread into 3cm thick slices with a serrated knife.
  • Toast slowly on a flat tray under a salamander until well browned, nearly burnt.
  • Remove crust from sides and cut lengthwise into strips, 2.5cm wide and 8cm long.
  • In a shallow container, soak bread portions in hot bread meuniere sauce, toasted side facing up. The bread meuniere sauce should cover 2/3 depth of the bread, in order not to touch the toasted crust.
Preparation method: whole wheat toast
  • Combine all the ingredients except for the lecithin.
  • Bring to the boil and add soy lecithin.
  • Hand blend as needed for a light foam consistency.
Finishing and presentation
  • Toast the bread again under a salamander until nearly burnt.
  • Remove bread from the sauce, turn onto flat side.
  • Cover bread with sliced truffles.
  • Top truffles with the light bread meuniere foam.

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