Sam Buckley is a British chef who was trained at L’Enclume** and opened his own restaurant in 2016, called Where the Light Gets In. Nothing that Sam does can be called ‘normal’. His restaurant doesn’t offer any paper menus or wine lists. Actually, it goes one step further and you don’t even get to choose at all. Sam only works with products that he was able to source on that day from his producers and fishers. This gives the guests a different freedom of choice: the freedom from choice. This means that the products that Sam uses are almost always locally produced. Even the waste-processing system that Sam uses is unique. He ensures that his products are used from head to tail or from leaf to roots in the dishes he creates. He ferments a great deal and creates powders from residual products. If anything does get left over, it goes straight onto the composting heap.
Sam is a creative spirit whose creativity is not just restricted to the plate. He also plays bass guitar and loves to travel around the world when he gets a moment. During his travels he searches for inspiration for his dishes. This gives each dish its own unique story. He encourages his chefs, who serve the dishes, to tell these stories in their own way.
Sam about this dish: ‘This is a take on the traditional treacle tart recipe, which uses all the whey we have left over from the yoghurt-making process. We use a heavy reduction technique that leaves us with an all-at-once sour and sweet, sticky, caramel-like whey product. It also allows you to get in touch with your local dairy farmers to use their left-over whey. It’s always good to work directly with farmers and it is how we often find the best produce and forge the strongest relationships.’
Creation by Sam Buckley, Where the Light Gets In Restaurant, Stockport, United Kingdom.
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Preparation method: reduced whey
- In a large pan reduce 10 litres of whey on the lowest possible heat. Do not allow the whey to boil, and continually skim to avoid the build-up of protein solids.
- This process will take a long time, but be patient and allow the whey to reduce as slowly as possible.
Preparation method: whey filling
- Add 210g of reduced whey to a pan with the honey and salt.
- Allow the mixture to melt and add the breadcrumbs.
- Stir to disperse evenly throughout the mixture.
- Add the cream and check for seasoning.
Preparation method: tart
- Cream the sugar and butter together and add the eggs and combine thoroughly.
- Season with sea salt.
- Make a well in the flour and add the wet mix bit by bit— mixing as you go.
- Try not to work the mixture too much as you incorporate all the ingredients together to end up with a smooth dry pastry.
- Flatten out with a rolling pin until you have a 2-centimetre-thick circle about the size of a dinner plate. This will help with the rolling later on. Leave in the fridge for an hour to set.
- Roll out your pastry to 5mm thick and line a 10-inch fluted pastry case. Blind bake the pastry case for 20 to 25 minutes at 180°C.
- Bring the oven down to 120°C, remove the weight from the pastry case, pour in the hot whey mixture, and bake at 120°C for a further ten minutes.
- Allow the tart to chill.
Finishing and presentation
- Portion the tart into sixteen slices with a sharp pastry knife.
- Whip the cream.
- Serve the tart with a dollop of cream.